Cuba Libre: Vida en la calle Cubana

PHOTOGRAPHY/ 2007 - 2019

Cuba went through a lot of changes since my  first visit here in 2007 for the Ico-D World Design Congress. The US administration under Barack Obama normalized relationship with the island. The sanctions were eased and hundred thousands of Americans have been allowed to visit Cuba. Over the last decade the country has changed, with  brand new western hotels, numerous restaurants in Old Havana, accessibility of Chinese smart phone and access to internet (still limited though). Yet despite all those changes one can still experience the famous rustic old Havana with its iconic pre-revolution cars, crumbling colonial architecture and ever present scent of Cuban cigars.

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While venturing through the streets of Havana I spoke to many Cubans content of changes and hopeful for the future in spite of still visible poverty and hardships. Although still underdeveloped in many areas the island slowly embraces the future and globalization and the new generation of Cubans is already immersed in Western culture, its music, clothing, aspirations. Yet the visible presence of revolution, Che and Fidel remains integral part of Cuban life. The Communist Party remains the dominating force over the island, even when slowly embracing entrepreneurship and consumerism and profiting from booming tourism industry.

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If you were to do only one thing while visiting Havana you have to go to the Malecon at dusk, the city’s sea drive, and watch the sunset over the ocean and the city skyline. At this time the Malecon boulevard transforms and comes to life; couples go walking, groups of friends talk and watch the waves together, and street performers play all along the thoroughfare as the dusk sets. Thanks to centuries of cross-cultural fermentation Malecon and Cuba’s capital is a round the clock jam session of staggering diversity: from Rumba to jazz and hip hop – it’s all resonating here. Cuba may have endured shortages and sacrifices over the past decades, but the arts – music in particular – have prospered. Creativity is particularly strong in Havana, where faded grandeur and animated street life is starting to rediscover its entrepreneurial spirit.